Wednesday, June 30, 2010

Irish National Stud

After leaving Bunratty, and 9 of our fellow travelers to depart from the airport in Shannon, the remaining 10 of us headed back towards Dublin for our post-night stay, so we could depart the next morning from Dublin Airport. On the way, we stopped in Kildare at the Irish National Stud and Japanese Gardens.

We all agreed that even we would be comfortable in these beautiful stalls for their coveted stallions!

From the Irish National Stud webpage: "The lands around Tully have been associated with the breeding of horses since about 1300, when it is likely that war horses were bred here for the Knights of Malta.

However, the first record of the setting up of a stud farm is in 1900, when the lands were purchased from a local farmer James Fay, by Colonel William Hall-Walker, who later became Lord Wavertree.

As 'Willie' Walker approached middle age, he turned his attention to the owning and breeding of racehorses, quickly turning the farm at Tully into one of the best studs in Europe at the time.

During this period Colonel Hall Walker also decided to have a Japanese Garden built on a boggy site near Tully House. The Garden was laid out by an eminent Japanese landscape gardener Tassa Eida, assisted by an army of local labourers.

In 1916, Colonel Hall Walker presented his Stud to the British Government for the purpose of founding a British National Stud. Under the guidance of its first director, Sir Henry Greer, the National Stud continued to maintain the high standard of bloodstock production set by its predecessor. In 1943, the newly formed Irish Government took over the land and buildings at an agreed valuation. In 1945 the Irish National Stud Company Ltd. was formed and it officially took over the running of the Stud on 31st August, 1946. Since then it has continued to expand and develop and is now a source of national pride and an international tourist attraction."


The guide who took us on a tour was very entertaining. He said that they were offered $45 million for one of their stallions by a horse farm in Kentucky, and the offer was turned down! He explained how a stallion was evaluated for success. "Well," he said, "you of course look at the bloodlines of the birth stud and mare as well as how many races they've entered and won, but you also have to look at the horse himself. You want a horse that has the head of an Irish prize fighter, the shoulders of a baker, and the swagger of a hooker." That got quite the laugh!

They also have some miniature horses (shown above) there at the Stud and one had recently given birth to a foal.

We were lucky to catch one of the stallions coming in from the paddock with a groomer. What magnificent animals they are!

On the grounds there, you can also find the ruins of Black Abbey. From the Kildare website:

"The abbey ruins are in the grounds of the Irish National Stud. The Knights Hospitallers or Knights of St. John of Jerusalem founded the Black Abbey sometime before 1212 at Tully. The Abbey thrived under the patronage of the various Lords of Kildare but remained a Hospitaller preceptory until it was surrendered to the Crown during the Reformation. It was known as the Black Abbey because the Hospitallers wore black habits in the preceptory."



Tuesday, June 29, 2010

Bunratty Castle

(Bunratty Castle photo from Wikipedia)

We left the Cliffs and headed up over towards Shannon and to Bunratty Castle. Built around 1425, this restored castle is on the site of a castle formerly owned by the McNamara Clan, before passing into the hands of the O'Briens, who later became Earls of Thomond. We stayed at the nearby Bunratty Castle Hotel which was in walking distance of the castle.

Twice each night, they host a medieval banquet and show with the Bunratty Singers in period costume providing music and entertainment. We were gathered in the great hall and served mead, a honey wine, along with music and explanations of the evening's planned activities.

The room was amazing with furnishings from the 15th and 16th century. Just look at the carved wooden figures which were at the base of all the support beams!

There was stained glass in each window which was just beautiful. I wish I'd had more light coming through them so you could see how spectacular they were.

The tapestries hanging on the walls were huge and ornately created.

This was a "wedding chest" which they explained would have been a sort of dowry item for a bride. It had intricate carvings within each panel and the last panels would have been left empty awaiting the groom's family crest to be added.

Here is a closer view of the center panel depicting The Last Supper. All of this was, of course, hand carved.

I'm sad to say that we did not really enjoy the dinner once we got to the banquet hall, and even slipped out early once I saw that there was no way my mom would be able to eat the spicy food offerings so late and not suffer all night long. But seeing the period restored castle was a treat indeed.


Monday, June 28, 2010

Cliffs of Moher

The Cliffs of Moher, in County Clare, are a must see stop on any trip to Ireland. Rising upwards to some 700 feet above the Atlantic, they are an imposing and spectacular sight to behold. As we ascended the stairs up towards the north side view, we stopped to listen to Tina Mulrooney on her harp. She was singing traditional Irish ballads and had a placard which said that her CD's were for sale in the visitor center. My, but it was beautiful.

Because my mom could not navigate all the stairs, she stayed to enjoy Tina while I went up to snap some photos. I found this nice video on YouTube. Enjoy it while you take in the views... (Oh, and we of course purchased her very beautiful CD Beneath the Moher Sky which is also available on iTunes if you are interested.)




The sun was coming in behind me and the mist you see is a rather constant presence on the cliffs. For perspective, if you look at the very top, you can see little specks which are actually people on the edge of the walk along the cliff. Oh, how I wished I'd had my zoom lens to be able to see some of the birds flying down along the cliffs!

On Wikipedia: "The cliffs consist mainly of beds of Namurian shale and sandstone, with the oldest rocks being found at the bottom of the cliffs. It is possible to see 300 million year old river channels cutting through the base of the cliffs. There are many animals living on the cliffs. Most of these are birds, with an estimated 30,000 birds from 29 species. These include the noted Atlantic Puffins, which live in large colonies at isolated parts of the cliffs and on the small Goat Island. Also present are hawks, gulls, guillemots, shags, ravens and choughs."


Looking towards the opposing side of the main cliffs, you can see O'Brien's Tower which was built in 1835 by local landlord Cornelius O'Brien as a viewing point for the tourists that even then were flocking to the Cliffs.

From Wikipedia: "O'Brien's Tower is a round stone tower at the approximate midpoint of the cliffs. It was built by Sir Cornelius O'Brien, a descendant of Ireland's High King Brian Boru, in order to impress female visitors."

For a price of 2 Euros, you can climb the tower, but I felt I had just as lovely a view from in front of it.


When we gathered to leave, we were able to take a group photo (which I hope soon to receive from another traveler in our group) in front of the visitor center. I asked a member in our group to take a photo of my Mom and I with Eamonn, our wonderful driver and guide.

As we left the Cliffs, Eamonn pointed out the ruins of the former home of the tower builder and landlord Cornelius O'Brien who apparently was a ruthless man and not very well thought of by his tenants. It truly was like being transported back into another time. What a beautiful day.


Sunday, June 27, 2010

Sneem and Ladies' View

As we pulled into the village of Sneem, the first thing we saw was a bridge overlooking the very beautiful River Sneem. And of course, there growing defiantly, a beautiful Rhododendron!

The river flows through the village and meets the currents of the Kenmare Bay, and is simply a beautiful sight to behold.

As we were waiting for our fellow travelers to return to the coach, I looked across the street and noticed this very lovely church. I jumped off the coach to run over and snap some photos before we departed, but realized that I never got the name of it!

Google to the rescue! I searched for "churches along the Ring of Kerry" and found the name of several to check. The last one I checked, St. Michael's Catholic Church, turned out to be the beautiful church I had found.


Heading back towards Killarney, where we spent a second night, we went through Killarney National Park and stopped at this scenic view overlooking the lakes of Killarney. It is called Ladies' View and derives its name from the pleasure expressed by Queen Victoria's Ladies-in- Waiting during their visit here in 1861.

Back to Killarney and to the Cliffs of Moher the next day...


Saturday, June 26, 2010

The Skellig Experience

As we wound our way around the Ring of Kerry, one of our stops was at the Skellig Experience Center. Skellig Michael is a rocky island 9 miles off the coast of County Kerry. In the sixth century, a group of monks went to the island to establish a monastery. As they climbed, they had to carve out steps along the way to get to the top of the island, where they constructed rock huts in which to live and meditate. There were probably a dozen of them at the most with an abbot. They felt that here they could be closer to God.

They existed by eating the birds who nested there, and importing soil from the mainland to grow meager crops. They endured several raids by Vikings over the years, and finally left in 1222 AD. It has remained a pilgrimage area for years, and now has a visitor area and lighthouse. Trips are offered where you can scale the mountain to the top and see the huts that remain to this day.


Below you can see Eightercua, which is, according to Wikipedia, "a four-stone alignment (stone-row) Megalithic tomb, located 1.5 km south-south-east of Waterville, County Kerry, Ireland. The tallest stone reaches 9 feet in height, and the alignment streaches for twenty five feet in an east-west direction. Surrounding artifacts, including remains of a possible tomb and an ancient enclosure, suggest that the site had a ritual purpose at one time. Eightercua is thought to originate from circa. 1700 BC, and by tradition is the burial place of Scéine, wife of the leader of the Milesian invaders, Amergin mac Míled."

I was able to capture this view from the coach as we drove by it. Every time I saw standing stones I thought of Diana Gabaldon's Outlander series!


As I said before, the shoreline views along the Ring of Kerry are the most beautiful I have ever seen.


Here is a view of the steep and narrow road around the mountain as we made our way back to Killarney.

Looking back over our shoulders, we could see the village area below and the fishing vessels in the bay. Onward to Sneem...



Friday, June 25, 2010

Dingle Peninsula and a Sheep Farmer

Many people have asked about our weather, and all I can say is that the fairies and leprechauns smiled upon us while we were in Ireland. We had one afternoon of rain in Dublin the very day we arrived and the remainder of our time was comfortably overcast or sunny with temps in the morning around 45 or so, and in the daytime they reached around 66-68 degrees. We never once broke out the fleece we packed, and were quite comfortable in light long sleeve or quarter sleeve shirts.


Here is the initial photo I posted last Saturday which was taken along the Dingle Peninsula. Continuing along the Ring of Kerry, the narrow road, and I do mean narrow, winds along some of the most breathtaking shoreline you've ever seen.

And yes, the water really is that blue! At one point, we had to pass another coach. As our driver inched towards the other smiling driver, he rolled down his window and said, "I'll hold me breath if ye will!" There must not have been any more than an inch of clearance with the side mirrors! Eamonn drove that coach like a mini-van.


One of our stops was in Kells to visit Brendan Ferris, who owns and runs Kells Sheep Centre. Brendan explained about the different kinds of sheep in Ireland, and then gave an amazing demonstration of his working sheep dogs.

They are each trained using different whistles. There are signals for right, left, stop, and circle around. If he is close enough, he can use his voice commands, but when they are high in the fields, he simply uses the whistles to give commands. It was so amazing to watch these two happy dogs doing what Border Collies love to do. And they were so very responsive to his commands as they demonstrated how they herd sheep.

He can even get them to single out the large sheep, or the small sheep so that he can sort a herd. But, as soon as he would give the stop command, the dogs would immediately lay down and the sheep would stop to graze.

He said that his dogs will work up until they are around 8 years old. Those were two happy, happy dogs! It was fascinating to watch this age old traditional farming activity up close and understand the close connection between the farmer and his dogs. Below he had given the stop signal to one dog and had the other dog continue to move the sheep towards the upper pasture. Amazing!

Thursday, June 24, 2010

The Ring of Kerry


The Ring of Kerry is the most famous scenic drive in Ireland and encompasses the Iveragh Peninsula. It is a gorgeous 130+ mile drive and was our favorite day of the tour. We had several planned stops, but there was plenty to see and take in as we headed down the winding narrow roads.


The views changed from mountains to shore and back again, and I found myself snapping away, even through the windows of the coach just so I could remember how lovely it was there. We went through the town of Killorglin, where each fall they have a festival dedicated to celebrating the goat, and crown a lucky billy goat "King Puck." There is a statue dedicated to this in the center of town.


We found it interesting that Rhododendron was growing wild all over the place. Beautiful pink, showy blooms! Then our guide told us that it is considered an invasive species there and that in many places, it is being eradicated so that it does not push out native growth vegetation! We told him in the US we pay good money for them, and he just laughed and laughed.

I wanted to get a photo of a peat field, and this one is the best I could do from the coach. Burning peat is an old tradition and way of life in Ireland and Eamonn explained that since Ireland joined the EU, they have put more restrictions on production/use of peat as a heating source since it produces so much soot and smoke. But, there are die hard Irishmen who still farm the bogs for it and even sort of sell it on the "down low."


This beautiful valley with a babbling creek was a good stopping point to stretch our legs and breathe in the scenic beauty of the mountainous region.

It was so neat to see such different topographical regions in one circular drive through the countryside. Next, we head towards the coastline...